Author Archives: Patrick

A new route for Skøiern

Hola amigos ! We are in Puerto Quequen (Necochea ), 38°33′,77 S / 58°42′,87 W , were we came back after an attempt to sail to Puerto Madryn. But the winds had decided for us. After 4 days of fight we went back to Quequen, at the very good “Club de yate Vito Dumas”. It seems to us we are already late in the season, we had planed to sail early in November, but a quick stay in the clinic ( for the Captain) put us one month late. The weather is very changing, with a lot of head winds. We had never  been heaving to for such a long time, we never sailed with such reduced sails, and we knew that it will not improve, it wil be worse in South. Then, to spare our boat, who is nearly 100 years old, we have decided to sail to the North, at the begining of May, trough Brazil, Tobago, Panama and Costa Rica at the end of 2013, then  Marquesas, and then depending on our schedule, Chile and the Patagonian canals in 2016, but this time with wind and currents with us, that makes the difference . Our schedule don’t change, just a little in desorder, we don’t give up sailing in this part of the world which ocupy our minds since so long.

Skøiern and crew are well.

San Fernando, Tigre, Buenos Aires

San Fernando, Tigre, Buenos Aires, all these places are full of birds, of boats, of flowering trees. It’s Argentina as we love it already. Here it’s the old Europe changed by the magic of the continent, the luxuriant nature, the latin temper of the immigrants. We thought we will find coolness, it’s summer which harass us, with 35°, thunderstorms and tropical rain. Our marina is full of nesting birds, of horses who come here grazing peacefully, dogs of all parts accompanying us. Our prolonged stay permit us to thrive of Buenos Aires, the ” Capital federal”, wandering around museums,  bookstores, alleys, all what we make provisions before leaving the civilisation for the great South  : San Telmo and its antiquaries, its Tango bars, the Plaza de Mayo, where marks of pain are still here, “madwomen of May” or abandoned veterans of the Falklands war. Our growing understanding of spanish make us closer, every day more, of these people whose kindness, delicacy, proximity always surprise us. Soon, if the weather in the Rio permit it, we will put the heading on Mar del Plata the “porteños” start to invade, summer is coming ! We stock for six months as we will be short of groceries.

Rio de La Plata

C’est toujours dur de partir, ça encore été le cas à Piriapolis, on s’était habitués, on laisse des amis là bas, mais bon, c’est la vie de nomade ! Le vent d’est nous à poussé jusqu’à Colonia del Sacramento, ultime étape uruguayenne, puis traversée du Rio de la Plata, navigation dans les chenaux réservés aux gros bateaux (notre tirant d’eau de 2,70m ne nous permet pas trop de fantaisies dans cet immense embouchure où les fonds sont bien souvent inférieurs à 2 mètres, et ça sur des centaines de milles…) puis le delta, mélange d’Afrique et de Louisiane, sillonné par les lanchas en bois vernis. Skoiern est amarré bien sagement pour deux mois à San Fernando, dans le rio Lujan, entre El Tigre et Buenos Aires. C’est très vert (il y a de l’eau partout), bourré d’oiseaux de toutes sortes, l’eau est couleur café au lait, de l’eau ferrugineuse comme l’expliquent les guides touristiques, mais il doit y avoir bien d’autres choses…L’Argentine nous plait. Comme en Uruguay il y a des chiens partout, qui sont libres et pas agressifs. Il est rare qu’on rentre au bateau seuls, on a toujours un compagnon à quatres pattes en plus, quand il n’essaie pas de monter à bord…El Tigre est très beau, San Fernando aussi, mais il ne faut pas marcher longtemps pour voir la misère et la pauvreté. Les “cartoneros” sont à tous les coins de rue, la vie est chère, et pourtant les gens sont gentils, accueillants, seules les voitures sont agressives. On a enfin retrouvé de vrais cafés où il fait bon prendre son temps, on retrouve de vraies librairies et on achète les fleurs dans la rue.

Dry dock

Hola amigos ! ? Que tal ? ? Como estan? For us all is well, Skøiern was back to the water after 3 weeks of works ( once more ! )but we have taken our time and Skøiern is now  nearly ready to face the Great South. On month more here before cruising along the Uruguyan coast, and then, mid Septembre, it will be  Argentina. Meanwhile the port population is always as numerous and varied, even the turtles ask for human help to get rid of big snails (chinese it is said…) which prevent them to swim correctly ! For some of you Summer is coming at last… but for us winter is quite mild, just enough to thrive of the stove.