Puerto Montt – Bariloche – Chiloé

Puerto Montt, now we are far from the quiet rios of valdivia, the port, overlooked by volcanos, facing the ocean and the close Chiloé island. Fishing boats are packed in the Tenglo canal, we make our shopping at Angelmo, a turistic place where the people of Chiloé sell their vegetables. We will attend the “Fiesta Patria”, with cavalcade, dances, children and parents in traditional dress, fairstands, we will take the opportunity to be in the Club de Yates Reloncavi to haul out and paint our Skoiern before sailing to Chiloé.
Just a little tour to Argentina, by bus, to renew our visas ( we are now since 6 months in Chile), then we croos the Andes for Bariloche, the “Argentin Swiss”, and make provisions of chocolate, books, kisses to the Saint Bernard and wonderfull sceneries.
Mechuque, outpost of Chiloé, where wooden boat are still built in cypres, caulked with alerce bark, where the house are on piles, the palafitos we will meet again in Castro, where the sheeps wander in the streets, and where swans, cormorans, steamer ducks surround us.
Quemchi, home of Francisco coloane, with his museum, its fishermen changed in artists. Castro, the colorfull, its splendid wooden church, then Quellon, far in the south, where a huge fishing fleet take shelter.
We go on South, the weather is fine to cross the Bocas del Guafo, the volcanos follow us, we arrive in the Chonos islands, last archipelago before the Gulf of Penas and the Patagonian channels. There is nothing left of the Chonos, they have disappeared a long time ago, swallowed by history, without leaving any track.

« 1 of 2 »

Valdivia

Nearly five months that we are in Valdivia, we didn’t see time flying, and we could want to stay longer, as we love this country so much. Valdivia, where so many sailers,  famous and unknown, came trough, where we will have news of those who came before us, where we will met our friends of “Fleur de Passion”, met Arnaud and Morgane of “Paradise”, Marja and Stephen, on “Motu”, met Tite,  companion for the South seas of Willy de Ross…In the Club de Yates of Valdivia as much as in  La Estancilla we will be welcomed, helped, spoiled by Jorge, Marcelo, Humberto, Jonathan, the friend Chacho… The dogs Samanta and Maxima will stuck to us.  Valdivia, it’s also our gate of entry for Chile, a country we wanted to reach for a long time. We will discover it, the soil is rich here, the fluvial market is realy gorgeous, the food is good, the vine too, the beer flows, inheritage of the German colons whose print and presence are strong. There are the  Mapuches, dwellers of this land since millenniums, facing the modern world, there is the marks of the past, deep, witness of men’s folly and of the wrath of nature. there is the rios, the woods of eucalyptus, the mimosa, the copihue, the emblematic flower of Chile, multituds of birds, grebs, pelicans, swans, kingfishers….ibis, vultures. There are the horses, splendids. There is rain too, of course, but sun also, the climate is warming….

We will soon sail for Puerto Montt, then Chiloe, we will tell you.

« 1 of 2 »

La longue route

Valdivia, Chili. 4986 milles, 57 jours de mer depuis Bahia Samara !

La route a été longue depuis San Francisco. Il a fallu d’abord nous arrêter au Mexique, à Cabo San Lucas, haut lieu du tourisme…pour laisser passer la tempête tropicale Rick, puis nous réfugier à La Paz, pour nous protéger de Sandra, dernier cyclone de la saison. Mais l’alerte aura été chaude, nous avions sous estimé El Niño, et nous attendrons fin décembre pour repartir pour le Costa Rica. Il nous faudra encore subir les colères des golfes de Tehuantepec et Papagayo avant d’arriver à Bahia Samara où nous attendait notre ami Christian, Clarissa et Nicole. Retrouvailles de marins, au mouillage dans cette baie magnifique, dans un pays où le tourisme n’a pas encore réussi à défigurer la nature, nous serons choyés, gâtés, prêts à affronter la longue route qui nous attend.

Bahia Samara Valdivia

L’océan va se jouer de nous, l’anticyclone se dérobera, les calmes vont nous éprouver, mais le 1er avril  au petit matin nous mouillerons notre ancre dans le Rio Valdivia, face à la marina La Estancilla, heureux d’arriver enfin dans ce pays dont nous rêvons depuis si longtemps.

Il nous faudra un moment pour nous remettre des ciels étoilés, de la ronde des  planètes, du ballet des albatros, de l’immensité de la haute mer.

Photos : Les pélicans de Sausalito – En mer – Cabo San Lucas : pélican et touristes – La Paz : Les requins baleine, El viejo y el mar : “Tengo un barco de papel…” , les fresques de Ulise Gomez,  – Mer de Cortez – Puerto Sacrificios –  Bahia Samara : Christian et son bateau, Clarissa et Nicole, les iguanes de Guanacaste – Pacifique Sud …

« 1 of 2 »

San Francisco

It would be hard not to love San Francisco, and more for sailors ! First it’s a port, a huge bay full of history, where everything reminds you the sea, the boats and their crews, be in Oakland in the bar where Jack London wrote his novels, in Sausalito where the houses are floating, in San Francisco at Pier 39 with the Sea lions stretched out, on the museum boats who are sailing. The hours are timed by the fog, the currents cut off Alcatraz, the  pelicans stuffed themselves , the parrots fly free, it’s a non stop show.

Always the same welcome, the same warmth , that’s America

« 1 of 3 »