Caleta Mejillones, here were living the last yaghans before they were “transfered” en Ukika, near Puerto Williams. Remain the grave yard, some houses, free cattle, birds, Martin’s shed, the one who still knows how to do bark canoes, when they are not beautiful boats made of cypres. There is also a replica of a “chiajous”who hosted before the iniciation ceremonies. Here where taken the pictures of Rosa Yaghan, the last of the Wollaston. In Puerto Williams we will meet Cristina Calderon, the last yaghan who speaks the language and her nephew Ariel, the gran child of Martin. Even if they are not numerous, even if they are without roots, their culture is still living, the yaghan is teached at the kindergarten, the Martin Gusinde Museum is devoted to them. Whom, who where denied any culture, when their vocabulary is rich of more of 30 000 words, whom, who had no chiefs, nor gods or religion, whom for whom the private property was restricted to the tools, arms and canoe, whom who were nearly exterminated for the pretext of civilizied them, they are still here.
Puerto Williams it’s also the Micalvi, an old cargo ship now serving as yacht club, even if the Armada closed her famous bar, it’s the sailing school, the southermost of the world, where a hundred of kids learn how to sail, whatever the weather, for free. With the friends Mauro and Roberto as teachers they will soon be champions ! We will make the showing of the “Boton de nacar” , the Patricio Guzman movie, the time of an asado, great moments…Puerto Williams it’s also the “Chez Patty” restaurant, it’s John the fisherman, always ready for help, they are the reunions, Carmen and Bernard, met in Polynesia, with whom we will climb the Cerro Bandera which overlook the Beagle Canal, Juan Pedro, met 4 years ago in Quequen, he is going North. It’s also the colonies of kelp and Scoresby’s gulls, a few steps from the port, free horses grazing everywhere, austral parakeets, herons, geese and others…
On the way for the Cape Horn, Puerto Toro, the southernmost village of the world, then the acrobats dolphins of Bahia Nassau, the Horn, fortress who will let us pass quietly in a moment of calm. We will end the year in Puerto Maxwell, alone in this wonderfull anchorage, bathing in the kelp, fascinated by this pure nature.
When, in the early morning of our departure, we will find the presents let by Francis and Mauro during the night, we will promise to ourselves, if we can, to come back here one day, this part of the world bewitch us.
